Knit Pattern and Sewing Advice Wanted: Rambles Included

Hello Lovelies,
Nothing new to show although I guess that's not totally true, you can see I've got two sets of back pockets done and I'm hung up on the fly fronts. It's more of a mental hurdle than anything... I chose my vintage zippers from the stash, yesterday. They are apple green and Copenhagen blue to semi coordinate with the pockets. Most importantly they are metal.

I think I'm going to win the consistently terrible photos award for MMM this year. I keep telling myself I'm keeping it real and the important thing is I am getting my outfit photographed every day. On the flip side, if the photo is so grainy, blurry and cluttered that no one can see my outfit what is the point?

MMM has also shown me I like every single version of the Wiksten Tova that I have ever seen. Coming in at a close second are all the Lolas I've been seeing pop up...
Speak of Lola, have any of you sewn her up? What have you sewn and loved in knits? With all the craziness going on I failed to get us a knit interview for this month so I thought I'd interview you all! Leave me your answers and I'll do my best to gather them up in another post.

What is your favorite knit pattern?
What is your biggest struggle/fear with knits?
What has been your greatest help/resource in learning to sew with knits?
Even though we're supposed to be stash busting... where is your favorite place to get good knits?

March Stashbusting or Why You Should Never Shop With Alzheimer's Lady

   I grabbed the first pair of dark wash jeans I saw off the shelf and hustled into the dressing room. Granny Alzheimer was getting fidgety but there was no way I was going to serve biscuits and gravy to the high school boys football team tomorrow morning in the same pair of shorts I'd been wearing all week. That same pair of shorts with that hole in the bum I'd just discovered this morning. Yeah....
   So I ignored the tag proclaiming these jeans had a slimming panel built in, didn't look at the fabric content and didn't really stop to see how they fit. I pulled them on and they didn't fall down so I whisked them off, gathered up Granny before she could disappear among the clothing racks and we headed to check out and home.
   It wasn't until I put them on the next morning and tried to put my cell phone in my pocket that I realized the "slimming panel" meant "we didn't put in the front pockets and all that top stitching that looks like front pockets is FAKE". I got another surprise the first time I sat down then stood back up. I stood up but my pants didn't. They stayed down where they had slid when I had sat. Being tall and these being low cut meant that unless I wanted to start a midriff bearing trend or share my undies with the world I was going to have to do some careful wardrobe planning when I wore these babies.

Look at those weird wrinkles! What kind of fabric does that!

   Plan my wardrobe I did. These were the only skinny jeans I owned and unfortunately were my go to pants for all my tunic tops or any time I needed to be a bit dressy. These were the only nice jeans I had and I wore them. I wore them even after the fabric started showing it's poor quality by getting these weird wrinkles and growing a size after every wear.  I wore them even when I was disgusted with the poor craftsmanship. I wore them.

UNTIL TODAY!

Today I finished my first Maritime Shorts jeans hack and I am super proud. It was just going to be a tester pair from some navy twill I found in the stash but it was too good of quality fabric to waste so I broke out the top stitching thread and Voila! 

Proud does not fully describe how I feel about these pants. Relieved, elated, delighted! I have a lovely pair of trousers that really don't look this wrinkly in real life. Trousers that fit me very well and don't have weird wrinkles or bagginess in the wrong places. I also used up an entire piece of stash fabric so GO ME! 

It's all in the details. I'm liking these "guts" shots. How about you?

This is my main accomplishment for this month. I also managed to make two simple skirt shorts and a pair of lengthened Maritime shorts. Next month, as I continue my Maritime Marathon I'll show you all my pattern alterations and adjustments. 

My loud red Maritime Shorts! Fun Fun! More guts too!

Right now I am going to try to bask in the glow of what I have accomplished instead of looking at my 

to do list in despair... it's at times like these I wonder if I have early onset dementia because I'm not sure where March went. What did you get accomplished this month?

Top 5 Hits and Misses and Reflections of 2013

My Hits, those "favorite creations, most worn or most loved" seemed to match with my misses, those "sewing fails, UFOs, worn once or complete disasters".  So I decided to collage them together.

Hit: Maxi Red Velvet A neutral color allows it to be accessorized and it's simplicity means I can were it anywhere.
Miss: Maxi Tiramisu I only wore it a few times because it was big, heavy and too odd of a design.

Hits! I've got a basic straight leg trouser pattern that I love.
Five pairs of Espresso leggings that are seeing tons of wear.
 Lastly, an almost wearable muslin for a bootcut jean. I just have to make two alterations to the pattern for a perfect fit.
From there I can use it for some skinny jeans.

Misses: The green pants are very wearable as pajamas or lounge wear not the elegant trouser I was going for.
Pink was a vintage pattern that I played and played with. I think they'll be cut up into something else this year.
Half Miss: Navy cords were very wearable but I copped out of a fly front for a side zipper and it has given me nothing but trouble. Next time I'll knuckle down and insert my fly front and if I use that heavy of a corduroy, I'll narrow the leg width.

I'm going to interject here and say, "Nanner nanner, Mistress of the Jar! I tried one leggings and four different trouser patterns this year. One of which is now a TNT and another is two alterations from being perfect as well. No trousers were bought by me!"

Hit: the striped knitted sweater was finished the end of last year but I've worn it TONS and always get compliments. So far the wool has shown little sign of wear.
Miss: This sparkle knit sweater was never blogged. I experimented with a vintage pattern and I just feel like the results are messy. I wear it very infrequently.

Hits: Lots of fabulous tops this year! If I had to choose just five of them it would be these: Cabarita,  Beauty, Camo Fluff, Vibrant Tunic, and Nautical Stripe.  Two were made with my TNT knit top pattern and the other three were patterns made with my measurements.
Miss: My Sew Weekly Top started out as a vintage pattern was cut down and still didn't fit me correctly. I already passed this baby on.

Without any scientific study my top patterns for the year were:

• Cake's Hummingbird Top (I made 3 and am loving the camo print one now that the cold weather has come)
• Cake's Red Velvet Dress (I've made 4 dresses 2 for me and 2 for Mom, and one more is planned.)
• Cake's Espresso Leggings (I've made 7 pair and they're in constant rotation.)
• Built By Wendy Sew U Home Stretch knit top pattern (This is my TNT set in sleeve pattern and I've used it at least 6 times for myself and twice for others this year)
• Lastly There have been two children's patterns that I've used quite a bit and have many more plans for. The Parsley Pants and the Tumble Tee. Both simple, both gender neutral, both easy to customize and alter.

Blogging has been so beneficial in helping keep a record of my projects; to helping me think through my choices and discover more about myself. After doing this round up my Top 5 Reflections are:

• When I start with an idea and follow it through I can come up with some beautiful things. My gut leads me well.
• I'm a real baby when it comes to putting in fly fronts........
• Making a list of projects helps me keep from getting overwhelmed by fabric and patterns and allows me to pick up something quickly when I find a few moments to sew.
• A warm turquoise is my magic color! 
• I need to let my time online inspire me and not let myself get sucked into Happiness and Creativity Killing Comparison. I also need to get off the computer and go create more.

Inspirations post here.

So what have you learned this year? Do you have a magic color? Do you ever get HCKC? I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season and has a Merry Christmas!

Sew Weekly Reunion

Hello Lovelies!

I had so much fun making the voice meme that's going around that I thought I give it another try with my Sew Weekly Reunion challenge. It also seemed a good way to condense a lot of info into one blog post. So please bear with all my "umm'ss" and other weird quirks and enjoy!

The Facts

Fabric: Probably Polyester

Notions: Buttons and Elastic

Pantone Challenge colors: Vivacious & 

Pattern: Advance 4640 and Lutterloh kimono top

Year: Early 1950s and 70s

Time to complete: 6hrs?

First worn: For video

Wear again? No, after making the videos I wore it around the house and the fit on it is terrible. It is too short and it keeps riding up and making a poof on my upper chest. I think I was in too much of a hurry and needed to add some gathers or pleats in the neckline to make it fit better. I am going to slice it up for part of my infinity scarves.

Total Cost: Free, fabric and notions all came from stash and will return to it.

All the details, the pretty and the not so pretty.

The Facts

Fabric: Brussels Washer Linen from Fabric.com and cotton scraps for pockets and waistband lining

Notions: Interfacing, buttons, zipper (all from stash, yea!!)

Pantone Challenge colors: Carafe

Pattern: Simplicity 2562 

Year: 2009

Time to complete: 7hrs?

First worn: For photos

Wear again? OH YEAH!! These are super comfy and I had a hard time taking them off after the photo shoot so I could keep them clean for the trip!

Total Cost: $18

All the lovely details!

Front, Back and falling over! Who knew photo shoots could be so dangerous?

Introducing the Cowboy Star Pants

I showed my not-nephew, Little Man, the amazing cowboy fabric and it's twinkling night sky. We both loved it but I wasn't sure what to do with it until Rae of Made by Rae, released her Parsley Pants pattern. I really enjoy her boy designs and inspirations. He told me he wanted long pants to wear outside. It was a very cold March and this is a light cotton fabric. I was able to hold him back until this Thursday when he walked in the door and practically dragged me downstairs to make "the cowboy star pants, today."

He helped me carefully tape the pieces together and whisked fabric bits away as soon as I got it cut. Just when I was ready to head to the sewing machine he informed me he wanted pockets on his back. I got him to compromise with pockets on the front.

Rae's done a great job with the directions with extra tips on seam finishes to make the pants wear well along with all the modifications available. During nap time I was able to get most of it sewn. I opted to serge the seams then stitch them down. When Little Man likes his clothes he wears them until his mother peels them off his grubby back to throw them in the wash.

He seems to be going through a shy phase when it comes to the camera. He immediately shoved his hands into his pockets and wouldn't take them out til I asked him to sit down. I think they are a success. 

So does he.

Pajama Party!!

SURPRISE!! It' s a Pajama Party!! 

I signed up for Karen of Did You Make That's Pajama Party. While I didn't manage to make myself any new pj pants I did make four pairs for my wonderful not-nieces and nephew. You asked for jumping photos Karen so here you go!

Wild Little Man Jumps! I think some of these were his ninja moves.

Best hair action of the day!

Everybody catch some air. In case you couldn't figure it out, there was no bed big enough for us to jump on so we had
a pretend slumber party on the trampoline.

Every slumber party needs a good dog pile!

If you aren't sick of pants and kids yet, I've got a few more photos!! hehehe

Yes I did make my pajama pants, about 4 years ago. Hey look! You can even see the kids pants
in this shot too!

We're all worn out now so excuse us while we snore away and get recharged.

Fear of Pants

I am afraid of making pants (trousers for all you foreigners). I think they are complicated, scary and confusing. I decided the only way to overcome my fears is by making lots of them, different kinds, different patterns, different alterations. I will find the perfect pair of pants for me!

With this goal in mind I decided to break out an interesting pants pattern I had bought a couple years ago: Vogue 1050.

Vogue 1050
It lured me in with its cool contrast pleat and flowing legs.

I had just gotten some vibrant green fabric in a loose weave that should be very cool for the summer and decided to give this pattern a go. After reading all the PatternReview reviews I decided to not do the inset pleat to make a more wearable everyday look. I also wanted something without zippers, easy to pull on and off and something I could adjust, depending on where my infusion set was placed. Yes, I'm a Type 1 Diabetic with an OmniPod pump.

Look away all squeamish people! When this is attached to my stomach
any kind of pressure on it drives me crazy. 

Trusting the advice on PatternReview I omitted the zipper and cut the elastic shorter than the pattern said. I made it as tight as I could yet still be able to pull it over my hips.

While I do feel this leans closer towards classy pajama bottoms than classy travel wear, they are very comfortable and adjustable which was what I was going for.

Come sort patterns in your pjs with me!! Any takers?

You can see the side seam bunches here but
it's not that noticeable when your shirt covers it
and you are busy living life.

I really like the loose, wide leg pant; much less fitting issues, but my mother thinks I need to make something that will show my legs a little more. I do need to figure out how to make skinny jeans for my billowy tunic tops so maybe that will be next on the agenda.
I probably won't be making this pattern again since it's a bit fancy for pajama pants and I have no "Tissue Faille or Lightweight Crepe"stashed to make a classy pair like on the pattern cover. It's gotten me ready to tackle zipper insertion in pants again. I just need to decide on a fly front, invisible zipper or side zipper? Do you have a preference?

MmmMmm! Warm and Beautiful!

I'm so excited I finally get to share these with you all!! I must admit I'm more excited to be wearing them though. I wasn't sure about the leg width but after my little photo shoot, I think they are perfect!

My beautiful warm corduroy pants!

This is the second pair of pants I've made with Simplicity 2562. I really like the fit I have achieved in the waist and feel like the booty's not too bad either. I didn't want to mess with a fly front in these so I just added a side zipper.

My old, worn store bought cords. Not bad for five years of wear.

Old worn and boring on the right, Lovely, fun details on the left.
I'm delighted I got to use that amazing old button.

From Frayed to Fabulous. Hemmed to the perfect length so it won't
happen again.

I had so much fun putting the details together on this and am so glad to have a nice looking pair of warm pants in my drawer again. But now I have some questions for you!

These are a wide leg pant and I've learned the heaver the fabric the wider the leg. I want to do a bootcut jean next and am not sure how to draw it in. I experimented by basting these pants and it twisted the leg around.

Do I just mark my knee and taper above and below? (I made a muslin out of the leftovers of my brown poly pants but it didn't work cause you can't press poly:P) Should I just make another muslin out of a better fabric?

Please share your jean making resources! All I can find are directions for making skinny jeans which is not the look I am going for. I did find this site with a promising resource. Has anyone heard of her before?

I am in need of your pant/trouser making wisdom. I know there has to be a solution out there! Thank you!

Oh yeah! I almost forgot, this is garment makes 5 down of my 27 stashbusting garment total! Pretty sure this is vintage corduroy I got from a lady before I went to college...

Pants In The Jar

STASHBUSTING ANNOUNCEMENT
Hey, January Stashbusters! We switched things up on you! Head on over to Cation Designs and post a link to your projects this month. We decided to try Cindy hosting a link party of everyone's projects and I'll do a little round up of my favorites so no one gets left out. In the interest of no one getting left out and preserving our sanity, we are also going to change the Stashbusting Headquarters board to only Cindy and my stashbusting posts so it will stay uncluttered and you all will easily be able to find out what is going on. So please link up to your projects and join us for our first Challenge!

REGULARLY SCHEDULED POST

While I am using fabric from my stash and I even used up some itty bits for the pocket bags today I'm going to be talking about my 2013 Sewlution and Pocket construction.

This is actually two goals for 2013 in one. I wanted to participate more with the online sewing community so when I saw Karen's, from Did You Make That?, challenge I decided to comment. What could comment hurt? I wasn't even sure I made it in time to meet the deadline. Her successive posts made me realize I had committed to something much bigger than I expected and if I fail public shame will be my lot!

So what did I put as my 2013 Sewlution? To not buy any pants/trousers this year but to make them all! I have 5 fabrics already earmarked as pants or shorts and one pattern pretested so I figured this was a reasonable goal and the push I needed since pants still fill me with trepidation and a bit of confusion. Apparently I was not alone in this goal either as it came in as one of the top 5 sewlutions.

Which brings me to today's post. I cut my first sewlution pair of pants out, it will be the second real pair I have made. The first time around I was confused by the 4 different pieces I had to cut for the pockets so I decided to share what I learned and show the funness you can add when you know what they are for!

This is the line drawing for the pockets on my pants.

Here's all 4 pocket pieces. 

The pocket facing and the front yoke need to be cut from
the fashion fabric because they are the bits that will be visible.

The insides which form the pocket bag can be whatever fun
fabric you choose since they will not be seen. I chose to
use some fun wax print remnants I had been given.

You layer and topstitch the fashion fabric to the pocket bags.

The inside bag or "pocket lining" that gets sewn to your
pants front looks like this.

I really like these two together. I love a bit
of surprise where it is unexpected.

This is what they look like layered together inside your
pants. All the fun print is covered so it will not show
on the right side.

I don't know if that helps you or not, call me silly, it confused me ( plus I was being a whiny baby about making pants). So what do you think of my fun pockets? Do you ever add elements of surprise to your garments?

Foundation Garments: PANTS!

Being taller than average yet not as tall as the tall brands leaves one struggling to find pants the right length. Add to this the chafing of your insulin pump's infusion sets from a waistband that won't stay up and you will wonder why I didn't overcome my fear of sewing pants much sooner.

I took advantage of a sale and bought Simplicity 2562.  I liked all the adjustable features and the beginner directions.
When I got it home and measured myself I realized I had bought the wrong size. Thankfully it had 1 inch seam allowances built in for adjustments, which meant sewing at a 5/8ths seam allowance they fit just fine. 

I did a muslin just as I was told to do. I made my adjustments and went to work on the pants. I added height to the waistband since I wanted a higher waisted look. I also wanted them high enough they wouldn't be catching on my infusion sets.

I like the second set of button!

Pros: 

The gorgeous brown.

The perfect length!

The waistband fits the correct spot perfectly!

The cute high waisted look.

Cons:

100% Polyester (It leaves you feeling rather moist for no good reason.)

Static cling

Pattern had me put the fly front in opposite to women's US pants.
Not sure about the center front placement of the buttons and fly.

Too baggy in legs?

For my first pair of wearable pants I am very pleased with them. I learned how to make pants and they are very wearable. I picked up a brown corduroy and a "sparkle" dark wash denim to make some flared leg jeans with next. As soon as I finish this shirt craze I am on.