Black Tie Pattern Event

STASHBUSTERS! DON'T LOOK! THIS POST IS NOT FRIENDLY TOWARDS DECREASING THE STASH.

Hello Everyone else! Or should I say,
 Good Evening, Ladies and Gentlemen. You are all cordially invited to my wonderful team's Black Tie Blitz.

I personally will be offering 20% off your entire order with the coupon code: BLKTIE20

I did some revamping of my shop and thought I'd share a little run down of how I break things up and give you some deal finding secrets.

Fabulous Frock Patterns

This is what it says, all my lovely dress patterns for Bust Sizes 30 to 36 if you want anything bigger you need to check out my Buxom Beauties section for Busts 38 and up.

Winter, spring, summer or fall, all you've got do is call,

If you're just looking for a good deal, which sometimes is all we're looking for, I made a totally new category, Eight Dollars or Less

This is where you'll find most of my modern patterns, very simple designs, the ones I think are just plain ugly, and the occasional incomplete pattern.

I also have a category for all the Magnificent Men in our lives! Hopefully I'll get it better filled out soon.

This is what passes for dress up where I live. I'm planning on getting it counted
and listed...

While all other pajama patterns go in my other new section, Unmentionables and PJs, Men get to keep theirs separate.

If you're sick of sewing clothes, check out my Holiday and Crafts, full of random sewing books, knitting and crochet patterns, and all the creepy doll patterns I manage to buy.

Or if you're looking for some special fabric for that special vintage pattern check out Fabric Books and Notions for all the wild and weird fabrics I can find, in remnants, sheets and yardage. 

If you think all this is fabulous and want to see more be sure to stop by our PatternPatter's Blitz thread on Friday for the main list of shop sales and all the new patterns getting listed throughout the day.
Thank you for your patience with this announcement. I'm off to wriggle into my dress.... See you there!

Vintage Pattern Sizes and How To Choose Yours

   In my last post I promised to try to explain a bit about how vintage patterns sizes work and why we who sew should not get hooked up on an arbitrary number called "Size"

   First some history, before Simplicity, Butterick, McCalls and Vogue became "The Big 4" they were simply creative people who found a market for their goods. My favorite is Butterick who started making and selling women's patterns on his kitchen table in 1863 at the encouragement of his wife. To read more, One Yellow Cottage has a great piece on Dating Patterns.

   But with each pattern company came a different measure of sizing. By 1937 a complaint was made to standardize the pattern making industry. Please pop over to this blog and read about the survey the U. S. Department of Agriculture published in 1941. Or Fashion Incubator has a wonderful in-depth 3 part series on the history and evolution of garment and pattern sizing. 

   While pattern sizes have not changed as quickly as RTW there was still a bit of vanity sizing going on and more importantly different UNDERgarments! 

Source

Wonder why those patterns had such tiny waists? Yep, corsets, girdles, Bullet bras! So never fear my friends, women didn't really look that way naturally!

You can expect to do alterations when you buy vintage patterns; but really, we have to alter most patterns we buy, vintage or not, since we are all wonderfully and uniquely made! 

Gertie has the best list of vintage pattern alterations with quick explanations on how to do them! I have used her method of letting out the waist on a couple dresses now with beautiful results. 

   The oldest vintage patterns only came with the bust size printed on them since it was assumed the seamstress would adjust the waist and hips to suit her personally. Most vintage patterns also came only in one size. Don't let that stop you though, there a lots of great tutorials on grading up or down a size and remember you may only need to adjust one part, ex. using Gertie's method.

Here's my online picks for grading:

Casey at Elegant Musings

Threads

Megan Neilsen's fast method

  Another thing to remember is Ease. To explain this simply, garment or wearing ease is what you need so you don't rip out of your clothes like the Incredible Hulk when you sit down, bend over or take a breath. Style ease is dependent on the look the designer was going for. Here's an example:

Lots of style ease

Very fitted not a lot of style ease

Depending on the style you may be able to buy a smaller size if it is more loose fitting; or larger if the vintage style is fitted and you don't want to do a lot of changes.

I feel like there is a lot going on in this post, with links sending you here and there. Here's my short list of buying vintage pattern tips.

1. Buy by Bust Measurement not Size. You can use your full or high bust measurement.

2. Decide what undergarments you are wearing and plan alterations accordingly. 

3. Remember most vintage patterns only came in one size which makes cutting and fitting easier. 

4. Consider the garment's ease.

5. Join WeSewRetro, it's a great community, with a vast experience base to bounce questions and ideas off of. Or contact me and I'll do my best to help ya too.

So ends my vintage pattern ramble. Please feel free to leave comments adding any more tips you may have on buying or using vintage patterns. Or correcting any incorrect info I may have posted. I tried to link back to my sources and get accurate stuff but ya never know...

Your Size... And Why It Doesn't Really Matter

  The other day I was having a conversation with someone I care about. She was excitedly telling me how she was beginning to sew for herself again and buying patterns. 

“You know they go up about two sizes from your ready to wear. So if you are __ in RTW you will be around  __ size in a sewing pattern.” I mentioned.

“Ahg!” She gasped. “I can’t be that size.”

   My heart broke a little when she said that. Didn’t she realize her shape didn’t change but the different companies use different systems? A woman’s size, whether she be young or old, seems to be something that stirs up great emotion and struggle. 

   My struggle was slightly different than most, since as a budding 14 year old I was interested in GAINing weight so I wouldn’t look so much like a holocaust survivor. Forced by a disease to count the carbohydrates of everything that came near my lips I wasn’t complaining when I did get to eat. I was more embarrassed about the bruises on my arms from checking my blood sugar than I was about my hair or clothes. I would get angry when I had to run laps to bring down my high blood sugar instead of getting to visit and eat ice cream with friends in the evening. 

   One of the blessings of living as a Type 1 Diabetic is the detachment I can view my body with. It is a piece of equipment I must use to get through my life. Unlike my car or my house which I can’t trade in, or paint whatever colors I want, My Body is something I can decorate however I want, changing whenever I feel like it. And my “Size” is merely a set of measurements that tells me how best to decorate. They are part of a complex math equation and when I get them correct I can create beautiful things! 

   My friends, I care about you and want you to feel as beautiful as I know you are so let’s sit down and have a serious chat about our body measurements and sewing patterns. So put on your best bra and undies, grab a tape measure and lets get the first part of the math problem correct by taking accurate measurements of ourselves.

Here's a few links to the beginning measurements we'll need: 

BurdaStyle with pictures and explanations.

Simplicity with clear picture and instructions.

Threads with a printable chart and comprehensive measurements.

Vintagegirl on choosing a pattern based on full or high bust measurements.

So now you have your homework!

Monday we’ll have a little history lesson on how sewing pattern sizes came to be and tips on how to choose the correct “size” vintage pattern for you!

Wednesday, we’ll take a look at what some modern pattern companies have to say for themselves and whatever else I dig up that is interesting.

Until next time, keep rolling with the wind!

Foundation Garments: PANTS!

Being taller than average yet not as tall as the tall brands leaves one struggling to find pants the right length. Add to this the chafing of your insulin pump's infusion sets from a waistband that won't stay up and you will wonder why I didn't overcome my fear of sewing pants much sooner.

I took advantage of a sale and bought Simplicity 2562.  I liked all the adjustable features and the beginner directions.
When I got it home and measured myself I realized I had bought the wrong size. Thankfully it had 1 inch seam allowances built in for adjustments, which meant sewing at a 5/8ths seam allowance they fit just fine. 

I did a muslin just as I was told to do. I made my adjustments and went to work on the pants. I added height to the waistband since I wanted a higher waisted look. I also wanted them high enough they wouldn't be catching on my infusion sets.

I like the second set of button!

Pros: 

The gorgeous brown.

The perfect length!

The waistband fits the correct spot perfectly!

The cute high waisted look.

Cons:

100% Polyester (It leaves you feeling rather moist for no good reason.)

Static cling

Pattern had me put the fly front in opposite to women's US pants.
Not sure about the center front placement of the buttons and fly.

Too baggy in legs?

For my first pair of wearable pants I am very pleased with them. I learned how to make pants and they are very wearable. I picked up a brown corduroy and a "sparkle" dark wash denim to make some flared leg jeans with next. As soon as I finish this shirt craze I am on.

Foundation Garments: Shirts!

Whoo Hoo! I am so excited to post about the progress I am making! These are the first two shirts I made from some knit I inherited from a friend who passed away. She was an amazing lady with a big personality!
The Michael Miller knit is loud enough on it's own but the brown needed some jazzing up!

 


I'm pretty sure I was influenced by Cindy's Tee and I think her whole science fiction vibe since I have nicknamed the brown shirt my "Intergalactic Space Travel Stewardess Shirt" Why, I don't know. I feel like Star Trek in it which is crazy cause I never watched Star Trek growing up.

Prepare to enter warp speed!

The buttons make me very happy. I love that they are all mismatched and how this color scheme evolved as I dug through the button jar.

Fun little details!

Which looks better? On me or on manikin?

While there is room for improvement I am pleased with how both turned out. Both are very wearable and the sleeves and body are both finally long enough for me!

Happy long sleeve!

So there you have it! My first completed Foundation Garment Post! So excited to have fun clothes that fit! What is your pet peeve when trying to find shirts? The fit? The color or pattern?

Vintage Patterns Tailored to YOU!

Here we are, at the end of our wonderful series on Vintage Pattern Sellers. I hope everyone has enjoyed it as much as I have. To check out all the interviews I made a Page!
Our last seller is very unique and provides instant gratification. Please meet Omega!

Who are you?
I'm Omega, and I run the store Embonpoint Vintage. I have been a history buff for a long time and my love of historical clothes stems from there. As a plus sized woman I know how hard it is to find great vintage patterns that can be made in larger sizes, so to be able to make these patterns available makes me very happy.

How did you get bit by the pattern collecting bug? 
Honestly, I'm not sure how anyone could NOT be fascinated by old patterns, they are such a glorious snapshot of a bygone era. I love that they are/were an "everyday" item, and that each pattern has it's own story to tell. 

Do you sew? Vintage, Modern, or Both?
I sew, but not nearly as much as I'd like to these days! I used to make historical costumes for a living, and of course have done modern sewing as well. 

Do you have any sewing tips for those of us who do sew with vintage patterns?
Be patient! Trust in your own ability as a seamstress. Vintage patterns really respect the autonomy and skill of the person sewing the garment - there's often no bossy step-by-step instructions and a lot of decisions are left to you. This is a great learning experience. 

Why did you start an Etsy store?
I came across an old pattern book, where the patterns could be made up to accomodate a wide range of sizes. I couldn't bear the idea of keeping this treasure to myself, so after some very tedious machinations with copyright lawyers and suchlike I was able to make the patterns available for sale in their current form. After I found one book I searched the world for more - back in the day there were dozens (if not hundreds) of these sorts of books available over the years. I am trying to bring as many of them into a wider availability as possible. 

What is your favorite part of the selling process? Least Favorite?
Favourite is when my customers send me pictures of their completed garments - I love to see how they have interepreted the pattern and how amazing they look. Seeing someone in a gorgeous garment that I helped exist, and seeing the smile on their face is the best reward I can think of. 
Least favourite is when people don't read the description or shop policies before buying and then get confused and/or disappointed with what they have received - thankfully this happens very very rarely. 

How did you come up with the idea to sell patterns as PDFs? 
I knew I wanted to make this available to as many people as possible, so being able to send them anywhere in the world via PDF seemed like a good idea. The alterations and clarifications I do to the patterns to make them sellable seemed suited to the PDF format - once I had added all the instructions etc, I realised I was basically making an ebook for every single pattern, and sending a physical copy just didn't make much sense to me. 

What are the advantages of using your patterns?
The fact that they can be made up in (almost) any size is a great advantage - I have had people use these for a whole bridal party, dance troupe or for all the kids. Because these aren't just a pattern, they're a drafting system, they are a great way to learn more about the drafting process and how patterns work. The fact that they are PDFs means there's no shipping delay. 

What time periods do your patterns cover?
At the moment I have patterns ranging from 1934 to 1969. 

1930s Dress

1940s Dress

1950s Wedding Dress

1960s Coat

What is your favorite pattern of all time? Why?
Ooh, this is a tough one, trying to pick a favourite pattern is like trying to pick a favourite child! I have always been fond of "Domina", it's just such an elegant outfit:

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Ooh, I'm loving that suit as well. Thank you Omega, for all the work you do making vintage styles available to a wider range of people! Check out her store, Embonpoint Vintage to see all the delightful choices!

Working With Unprinted Patterns

 Since I joined the retro sewing community I realized I was not alone in viewing Unprinted patterns with some trepidation, thinking they need some mystical skill beyond our possession to create. After completing my first dress with one I decided to share my thoughts. 

But first a look at some unprinted styles.

Interesting Shirt Details

These would make great Foundation Garments with their special details.

More Stunning Results

So when are you an accomplished enough sewer to tackle unprinted patterns? I chose these two patterns for our comparison today. Butterick 4440 is from the 40s and Butterick 6226 is from the 50s. 

Can you identify all the pieces shown on the instructions? Most dresses have the same three basic parts, bodice, skirt and sleeve. If you know the basic shapes you should be able to recognize them even if they don't have "SKIRT FRONT" printed on them. Keep your instructions close since they do have the pieces labeled. This pattern has a yoked bodice.

Unprinted patterns do usually have the piece number punched out on them as well so even if you get really lost you can find it on the diagram.

Even if the sewing construction directions confuse you read the little section at the top that talks about Pattern Perforations. Also make sure you find out what seam allowance has been given for the pattern. 

The biggest difference I found is when pieces go on the fold and marking the grainline.

Fold is marked with a triangle of small dots. Grainline is a series of large dots instead of the solid line we are used to. (Don't shoot me pattern preservationists but I did not trace my pattern and may have lightly traced a grainline through the large dots in pencil.)

Sleeve marking is still the same.

As Lynda stated in her interview, unprinted patterns are easier since they are precut to the exact size and all the notches and dots are prepunched. This allows for greater accuracy in marking not to mention less time in pattern prepping.

See the ease of marking buttonholes!

So what did I make? Are you ready to see??

I felt this went the best with the fabric I had chosen and it allowed me to use some BEautiful buttons I picked up when we visited family back East. I tried some new techniques and learned much. To read about the dress construction check out my post on WeSewRetro.

So how do you feel? Confident enough to tackle an unprinted pattern? Do you have any tips when working with them? Don't be afraid to try one next time since they are often full of those tiny details that make a dress extra special without going overboard.

Vintage Patterns International!

I hope you all are enjoying all the Pattern interviews! I am enjoying getting to know my fellow pattern sellers better and am picking up some tips along the way. Today we are taking vintage patterns global, checking out how things work down under.

Who are you?
My name is Lynda Slade. I have 3 active shops on Etsy: allthepreciousthings, sewnewthings, and SydneyVintageFinds. I live in Sydney, Australia, with my husband, 2 teenage kids and 1 cat. 

How did you get bit by the pattern collecting bug? 

About  5 years ago, I discovered what we in Australia call "op shopping", cruising charity shops for vintage goodies. That’s when I discovered vintage patterns, and started collecting. Around the same time, I discovered Etsy, and my collection went from just local, to global.

Do you sew? Vintage, Modern, or Both?
I’ve always sewed, my Mum taught me as a little girl. I started with Barbie doll clothes, and moved on from there. I’ve always used “modern” patterns, until I discovered  vintage. Now, I rarely ever use modern patterns. I make most of my own clothes, some clothes for my kids (if they let me), and home furnishing items.

I’ve recently discovered vintage sewing machines, too. I picked up a Palmer Princess for $25:

Isn't that a beauty!

and a Singer 319K, which I’m still cleaning and oiling:

Do you have any sewing tips for those of us who do sew with vintage patterns?
Don’t  be afraid of unprinted patterns! There can be advantages to having all your pieces precision factory-cut – you don’t have the tedious task of cutting them out yourself, and you know that they are cut accurately. Also, the perforated symbols (holes) allow you to chalk your markings directly onto the fabric with ease – no fiddling with pins. The markings on “printed” patterns are mostly superfluous, anyway (things like seam allowances).

Any tips for telling how to find great vintage patterns to sew with?

Australia has some unique vintage pattern opportunities, if you know where to look. The “Enid Gilchrist” range of pattern drafting magazines contain whole wardrobes full of vintage outfits, with  lots of helpful sewing tips too. Australian Home Journal magazines are another great resource  - each one was sold with around 3 pre-cut, tissue patterns for women and children, making them great value!

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What is your favorite pattern of all time? Why?
Wow, that’s a tough one....maybe this one:

Even at $125, it sold in no time. I just love the design of the cape, so elegant.

Why did you start an Etsy store?
After numerous “op shopping” trips, my home started filling up with fabrics, patterns, buttons, glasswear, vintage clothes - you name it. So "allthepreciousthings" was born; it was a nick name my husband coined for all the fabulous "junk" I bought home. Basically, I have to sell the patterns I know are fabulous finds, but can't use myself.  It funds my addiction for patterns to add to my own collection.

What is your favorite part of the selling process? Least Favorite?

I love mailing off a recently sold pattern to a new home – my least favourite part of the process would have to be the scanning and counting pieces.
What is your favorite item in your shop right now? 

I love the graphics on this pattern:

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Which item do you just want to go away?

I like this one, but I’m fed up with looking at it:

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Thank you Lynda for sharing what pattern addiction is like in Australia. Isn't that sports suit wonderful! I love the fabrics. I'm glad she brought up working with unprinted patterns. If all goes well Wednesday I'll be posting a tutorial on sewing with them and my results! 

Have a great week everyone!